Out and About: Al Fresco Toronto
For most people, summer means getting away from it all: hitting the lake, the campground, or the open road. Me? I head for the city. That's because I grew up a few miles from Manhattan, and fell in love with its culture and entertainment.
When I moved from the Big Apple to the Great Lakes, I brought my love of the city with me. It wasn't long before a long weekend in Toronto became a highlight of my summer. It's just a five-hour drive from home, give or take a few construction barrels.
Once I get there, I spend long, lazy days prowling the museums and bookstores, wandering through ethnic neighborhoods, and taking in a ballgame or a concert. But the weekend isn't complete until I immerse myself in outdoor life, Toronto-style--namely, an elegant, al fresco pub crawl.
I love Canadian beer in all its diversity.
But in the dog days of summer, I stick to the basics.
This means drinking quaffable, locally-made beer like
Steam Whistle Pilsner or Creemore Springs Premium Lager.
Or, if it's available, Scotch-Irish Session Ale or
Arkell Best Bitter.
In addition to Ontario craft brew, a good summer pub has to have a laid-back atmosphere and plenty of room outside. Fortunately, pubs throughout the city provide all three. Over the years, many have become old friends. Let me introduce you to a few.
It's located on the edge of Greektown, but Allen's on the Danforth (143 Danforth Avenue; 416.463.3086) is an enclave of Gaelic culture, with folkloric entertainers and Irish food. Grab a seat under a century-old willow tree in the backyard, and select from the 40-plus taps listed on the blackboard. The "backyard menu," featuring grilled meat and fish, is so good that Now magazine rates Allen's the best outdoor dining place in town.
The Artful Dodger (10 Isabella Street;
416.964.9511) is an unspoiled hangout I keep coming
back to. Like many of Toronto's better pubs, it's an
enormous Victorian house that's been given a British
look and feel. The cozy interior makes this a great
year-round gathering place, but when warm weather
arrives, there's only one place to sit: the intimate
seating area out front. The crowd is largely local, the
servers are low-key but efficient.
Bedford Academy (36 Prince Arthur;
416.921.4600) isn't a fancy prep school; it's a pub
located on a quiet residential street near the
University of Toronto. There's plenty of room on the
sidewalk patio beneath the big red umbrellas. On a sunny
Sunday afternoon, it's hard to find a better spot for a
quiet conversation with friends or just watching the
world go by. If you've got time on your hands, The
Duke of York (39 Prince Arthur; 416.964.2441),
across the street, is worth a visit as well. Its outdoor
patio is in the back.
The first time I visited the Madison Avenue Pub (14 Madison Avenue, at Bloor Street West; 416.927.1722), the sign at the entrance read, "All patios open due to stunning weather." There are now five patios on three levels; every year, it seems, there's more space to accommodate the loyal fans. Madison Avenue is a good place to enjoy a Creemore while darkness slowly descends on the city. If you can find a space, that is: it can get crowded on weekend nights.
They might not know your name but, like
the cast of Cheers, the folks atThe Rebel
House (1068 Yonge Street; 415.927.0704) will make
you feel at home. The patio in back is a perfect
backdrop for a pint and the weekend Globe and
Mail. The beer selection, one of Toronto's best,
features hard-to-find local micros. A word of warning,
though: on slow nights, it closes early. Should that
happen, the Quail and Firkin (1055 Yonge Street;
416.962.0782) is a good alternative. The Firkin pubs are
British-accented establishments, with reasonably-priced
food and friendly staff.
Man does not live by beer alone. Fortunately, there's no need to go hungry in Toronto. Most establishments serve a variety of pub grub: British classics like shepherd's pie and bangers and mash; all-American nachos and chicken wings; and Canadian favorites such as Prince Edward Island mussels and poutine (French fries mixed with cheese curds and covered with gravy). In most pubs, it's okay to order just a pint and a snack.
If all else fails, head for the streets, where a battalion of hot dog vendors awaits. Day and night, they grill Italian and Polish sausage, which you can load up with onions, sauerkraut, and hot peppers from the condiment tray. They're cheap, tasty, and part of the fun of Toronto in the summer.