Oktoberfest...In Your Home Town
Oktoberfest! It's the
world's biggest fair and liveliest beer party. From September
22 through October 7, some six million people will descend on
Munich, where they'll stuff themselves with chicken and pork
knuckles and drink foamy lager out of huge steins while
swaying to brass band music.
Bavaria's brewing calendar made
Oktoberfest inevitable. Before refrigeration, brewing in warm
weather was a crapshoot: contaminants like wild yeast often
spoiled the beer. So brewers took the summer off. But not
before making one final batch and storing it in a cool place
in the mountains. The beer was called Märzen, a
robust, reddish-amber lager Bavarians enjoyed all
summer.
When September's cooler days arrived, the brewers returned
to their kettles. And with a new batch of beer on the way, it
was time to finish off the last of the Märzen. In 1810,
Münchners were given one more reason to drink up: Crown
Prince Ludwig's marriage to Princess Therese. Their nuptial
celebration turned into--or, more likely, became the excuse
for--Oktoberfest.
A lot has changed since the first Oktoberfest: a harvest
fair was added; carnival rides made their appearance; and
local breweries set up beer tents for the crowds. The beer
got a makeover as well: Märzen became a lighter, less potent
brew called Oktoberfest, or simply festbier.
For many of us, a trip to Munich is a once-in-a-lifetime
experience. But every fall, thousands of North American
communities, large and small, stage homegrown Oktoberfests.
Legend has it that Blob's Park, a dance hall in Jessup,
Maryland, staged the first one in 1947. The idea caught on
quickly; German-American societies and local chambers of
commerce launched their own celebrations. Here are some of
the best:
- Cincinnati,
Ohio, September 14-16. Being Munich's sister city
means living up to high standards, but
Oktoberfest-Zinzinnati delivers. Drawing half a million or
more, it's one of the most popular Oktoberfests outside
Germany. Silliness is encouraged; the world 's record for
the largest Chicken Dance was set here, and this year's
massed kazoo band will be led by Tony Orlando.
- Columbus, Ohio, September 21-23. German Village
isn't just a charming bit of living history; it's a
thriving urban neighborhood. The site is unmistakably
German, but the festival itself has taken on an
all-American flavor, with something for all ages and
tastes. The big draw is three stages where visitors can
listen--and dance--to everything from the blues to country.
- Frankenmuth, Michigan, September 13-16.
Michigan's "Little Bavaria" celebrated its first
Oktoberfest in 1989, the year the Berlin Wall came down and
the two Germanys were reunited. This little town has earned
a coveted honor: its Oktoberfest is the only one in America
with an official seal of approval from Munich's Lord Mayor.
- Fredericksburg,
Texas, October 5-7. Founded in 1846 by German
settlers, this Hill Country town is a natural venue for
Oktoberfest. Organizers promise "oompah at its best"--brass
bands and polka music to whet the appetite for German food
and beer. There's fun for children, too; a separate
Kinderhalle, as well as wall climbing, face
painting, and radio-controlled race cars.
- Helen, Georgia, September 13-November 3.
Oktoberfest lasts eight weeks in this faithful reproduction
of an Alpine village in the Blue Ridge Mountains. German
bands from Europe and America highlight the festivities.
The town itself is an attraction, too; there are quaint
shops and restaurants, and, in the surrounding hills, fall
colors to admire.
- Kitchener-Waterloo,
Ontario, October 5-13. The festivities begin with
trumpets from the rooftops; and, before the last Ein
Prosit is sung, 700,000 visitors will take part.
Eighteen festhallen offer beer and a variety of food
and entertainment; there are also family events, including
a gala parade marking Canada's Thanksgiving.
- La Crosse,
Wisconsin, September 28-October 6. Beer is part of
everyday life in La Crosse, where eight German-owned
breweries once stood. One of them, G. Heilman, helped get
Oktoberfest USA off the ground. Today, it's one of the
nation's best Old World folk festivals, with an honorary
royal family, a lederhosen luncheon, and a
torchlight parade.
- Mt. Angel,
Oregon, September 13-16. Oktoberfest in this German
pioneer town started as a traditional harvest festival. It
has become the state's largest folk celebration,
highlighted by a Bavarian maypole dance performed by
schoolchildren. Visitors will find dozens of food chalets,
weekend street dancing, and a beer garden serving Oregon
craft brews.
- Seattle,
Washington, September 21-23. The Fremont
neighborhood, which calls itself "The Center of the
Universe," offers a one-of-a-kind Oktoberfest, with
chainsaw pumpkin carving and cross-dressing lumberjacks.
The beer tent is a microbrew festival, with some 30
breweries on hand. But there's one bow to tradition:
musicians have to perform at least one German song per set.
- Torrance,
California, September 8-October 28. Alpine Village,
a bit of Germany in southern California, has been staging
an authentic Oktoberfest for more than three decades. The
festivities include brass bands from Germany, folk dancing,
and yodeling and wood sawing contests. The festbier
served here is brewed on the premises.
- Tulsa,
Oklahoma, October 18-21. The city's large
German-American community--and their many friends--will
celebrate with beer barrel races, a Polka Mass, and rides
for kids of all ages. And lots of good food; the festival
has earned a spot on Bon Appetit magazine's list of
the best German food festivals.