The Changing Face of London's Pubs
A lot has changed in London since my first visit. The city air is filled with the sights and sounds of construction. Shakespeare's Globe and the Tate Modern, to name a couple, have joined the must-see list. Older treasures, like the British Museum, have gotten facelifts. The food has improved, too; the choice of restaurants has never been wider, and you can grab a decent sandwich at a corner shop.
Even that centuries-old institution, the British pub, has succumbed to the forces of change. For beer lovers, this has been a mixed blessing. Let's get the bad news out of the way first. Big corporations--some of which don't even brew beer--own a big chunk of London's pubs; some stand accused of sacrificing ambience and quality for short-term profit. Thoughtless entrepreneurs have gutted historic pubs, to the horror of preservationists. Loud music has become a distracting fact of life.
These are turbulent times for pubs. But with a little bit of homework, you can find a friendly place to savor a pint of cask-conditioned, or Real Ale. In an earlier Beer Traveller article, I recommended several websites to help you find good pubs. Using those sites, I was able to uncover new and interesting places to enjoy good British beer. More importantly, I've learned that "chain" isn't necessarily a dirty word. There are pub chains, old and new, that still treat beer lovers right.
In 1979, Tim Martin, law student from New Zealand, decided to do something about the dreary pub selection in his North London neighborhood: he bought one and remade it to his liking. The pub, which he called Wetherspoons, offered a variety of cask-conditioned ales...and a strict no-music policy. That's still the rule in J.D. Weatherspoon pubs, a collection that has grown to more than 400. These pubs also have no-smoking sections (still a rarity in Britain) and all-day food service.
There aren't any jukeboxes in Wetherspoon pubs, but the beer prices will be music to your ears. Guest ales are only £1.69 a pint (the going price in central London is £2.20 to £2.40). And if you want to take a British beer tour without leaving the capital, there's the "Century Collection"--a rotating selection of 100 cask-conditioned ales from around the kingdom. Look for a Century Collection brochure, with tasting notes, inside the pub.
While roaming the neighborhood around my hotel, a Fuller's "Ale & Pie House" caught my interest. That evening, I dropped in for a hearty sausage-and-bacon pie and a pint of Fuller's ESB. The Ale & Pie Houses are--dare I say this?--the upper crust of Fuller, Smith and Turner's pub operations. Many of them saw service as banks before they were converted into pubs. Fuller's collection also includes "Quality Locals," which offer homestyle food along with cask-conditioned ESB, London Pride, and specialty ales.
The Ram Brewery in Wandsworth has been turning out beer since William Shakespeare was just another struggling playwright. In fact, it's the oldest location in Britain where beer has been brewed continuously. Since 1831, the brewery has been owned by Young and Company. Nowadays, it's a working museum, and the public is invited to tour it. Young's has been in the pub business from the beginning; it operates more than 100 establishments in and around London. They range from sleek, well-lighted café bars to traditional pubs, many of which are listed in the Campaign for Real Ale's Good Beer Guide.
London also has plenty of pubs that belong to smaller chains...or none at all. One that definitely rates a trip outside Central London is The White Horse (1-3 Parson's Green, SW6; 020 7736 2115). It's a huge Victorian manor that once was a coaching inn. Its many attractions include an interesting selection of cask ales, and a gourmet menu with suggested food and beer pairings. The White Horse's only drawback is its popularity; having been showered with accolades, this is hardly London's best-kept secret. But don't let that stop you, especially on a warm day: there's plenty of room outside.
For the London beer drinker, only one thing is certain: more change. Pubs will come under new ownership; some will operate under new names, try to attract a different clientele, and tinker with what's on tap. Keeping up with the comings and goings is a full-time job.
The best advice? When you're in a pub, look for the wooden hand pulls on the bar with shields attached; they'll tell you what Real Ales are available. Keep an eye peeled for a copy of London Drinker. It's free, and it's a great way to find pubs with hard-to-find ales, organized tastings, and events like quiz nights. And, above all, be flexible: if someplace doesn't appeal to you, trust your instincts and go elsewhere. London has more than 5,000 pubs, so you need not put up with mediocrity.