Get Real! London's Cask-Conditioned Ale

We Yanks speak the Queen's English (though some may dispute that), and share a literary tradition with the British. But when it comes to beer, we've gone off in a wholly different direction. 

Beginning in the mid-19th century, waves of German immigrants came to our country. Among the gifts the new arrivals brought was lager beer, a crisper, less potent beverage than the English ales our colonial ancestors favored. Today, most Americans drink nothing but lager. But traditional British ale has begun to win a following over here. 

The secret of traditional British ale is that it's a living thing: it continues to ferment even after leaving the brewery. It's poured into wooden casks called firkins, then delivered to pubs. Firkins are carefully stored in the pub cellar; the ale is drawn out of them with hand-operated pumps called beer engines. British ale is served at about 55 degrees; the higher temperature and still-living yeasts bring out its natural flavor and aroma. 

Britain's traditional ales have survived hard times. In fact, they nearly became extinct. At many breweries, profit-minded management decided to pasteurize or filter their product in an effort to extend its shelf life. The new process killed the yeasts in the ale and, sadly, destroyed much of its taste as well. Fortunately, a grassroots consumer organization called the Campaign for Real Ale stepped in and saved cask-conditioned ale. 

The best place to enjoy Real Ale is that great national institution, the pub. British pubs are neighborhood gathering places where strangers, too, can feel at home. Some visitors argue that a trip to London isn't complete without an evening at the "local." 

Pubs, too, have also fallen victim to bean counters. The large corporations that own pubs--some of which don't even brew beer--brought in mass-market ale and installed loud juke boxes and distracting videogames. Some renamed centuries-old pubs and, worse yet, gutted historic buildings. 

But there are still plenty of pubs that offer Real Ale and a quiet ambience in which to drink it. If you're headed to London, a few hours of online research will locate good pubs all over town. A couple places to start are Casque Mark , which lists establishments that practice proper storage and serving techniques; and the Evening Standard's searchable pub listings. 

In London, "pub chain" does not necessarily mean bland beer and theme-park surroundings. A number of chains cater to serious ale drinkers. The best of them is J.D.Weatherspoon, founded by a New Zealander who bought a pub in his North London neighborhood and remade it to his tastes. The chain specializes in ale from smaller breweries, usually at reasonable prices. Weatherspoon pubs serve food, welcome children during the day, and follow a strict no-music policy. 

Unlike the U.S., Britain allows "tied houses," that is, pubs owned by breweries. Both of London's major breweries take full advantage of the law, operating well-run establishments that pour a dependably good pint. Fuller, Smith and Turner's pubs include first-class "Ale and Pie Houses" along with "Quality Locals" serving home-style meals. Young and Company operates more than 100 pubs in and around the city; they range from modernistic café-bars to comfy, traditional locals. 

With more than five thousand pubs in London, there's no need to settle for mediocrity. If you find a pub that doesn't appeal to you, try the one down the street. And when you do find one that's inviting, look for a blackboard with a list of ales or a row of wooden hand pulls with shields telling you what's on tap. Many of the better pubs offer free copies of London Drinker, which lists pubs offering hard-to-find ales, quiz nights, and even organized tastings. And before you leave, don't forget to jot down some notes; otherwise you're liable to forget which "Red Lion" served that perfect pint of Best Bitter. 

To get you started, here are a few London pubs I've enjoyed over the years: