In Newport Steht Ein Hofbräuhaus
Good news for Hofbräuhaus fans: You no
longer need a passport or a plane ticket to get there.
Earlier this year, the first American Hofbräuhaus opened
in Newport, Kentucky, right across the river from
Cincinnati. The location is perfect; the region has a
large German-American population, and Cincinnati is a
sister city of Munich.
Earlier this summer, I visited Hofbräuhaus Newport, making my entrance by TANK. No, not a military vehicle, but a Transportation Authority of Northern Kentucky shuttle bus from downtown Cincinnati. The roundtrip fare was just a dollar; the air-conditioner worked beautifully; and, best of all, someone else was doing the driving. (You can also get there by foot; just follow the purple bridge over the Ohio River.)
The Hofbräuhaus is close to Newport's Levee, a spiffed-up riverfront district which features an aquarium, multiplex theater, and the usual array of shops. Purists might object to the location, but don't forget that the original establishment in Munich has unabashedly catered to tourists for years.
It was a good thing I'd come for beer, not dinner; there was a three-hour wait to get into the Bierstube, a room set aside for quiet dining. Besides, a lighter version of the menu--pretzels, sausages, and the like--was available. The full menu, by the way, features Bavarian classics such as Schweinshaxe, German chocolate torte, and even fried pickles. There are also American dishes: beer-battered fish, Buffalo chicken wings, and, yes, cheeseburgers. Children are welcome, and there's a Kindermenu just for them.
Making my way past the gift shop, I found a
seat at one of the tables in the outdoor Biergarten.
At Hofbräuhaus Newport, much of the
seating is outside: Americans, like Münchners, prefer to
drink beer outside when it warms up; and there are
plenty of warm days in the Cincinnati
area.
The Biergarten had all the authentic Bavarian trimmings: strings of overhead lights, wooden tables and chairs, even blue and white carved-wood awnings with hanging flowerboxes (look closely, and you'll also find a maypole topped by a "Beer Garden" sign). In addition to two bars, there was a grill stand; the aroma of grilling meat is an essential part of the German beer garden experience.>
There were a few reminders that I was in America, not Germany. Instead of brawny, no-nonsense beermaids, cheerful young women brought drinks and sold pretzels; they wore traditional Bavarian dresses, and looked a bit wilted in the 90-degrees-plus heat. A steady stream of traffic rolled past, providing an occasional whiff of exhaust fumes. But on a happier note, there was a view of the bridges across the river, Cincinnati skyline and the hills beyond, and the setting sun. Guests--mostly couples and families--kept up a steady buzz of conversation in the beer garden, but one Bavarian detail, the clinking of beer glasses, was missing.
As darkness began to fall, I lingered awhile in the Festhall. It's a scaled-down version of the Munich landmark, with room for 350 merrymakers; and it has a few American touches, including a bar with where bartenders served mixed drinks and customers watched the ballgame on television. But the Festhall's designers have done a remarkable job of capturing the atmosphere of a German beer hall; they brought in heavy wooden benches, stained-glass windows, and fixtures imported from the old country. The room was almost full, and the mood was jolly. A brass band, the "Cincinnati Schnapps," was playing, and the oom-pah music inspired some in the crowd to get up and dance.
As for the beer, Hofbräuhaus Newport does
it strictly by the book: it's brewed locally (in fact,
the brew kettles are visible behind the bar), but under
the watchful eye of a Munich brewmaster. The beer is
brewed to the same recipe as those served at the
original Hofbräuhaus; the lineup includes Premium Lager,
Munich Weizen, Original Dunkel, and seasonal specialty
Maibock; and a light beer has been added to accommodate
American tastes. The beer is served in an authentic
one-liter Krug which, at $7.50, is slightly more
expensive than in Germany. While most drinkers seemed to
prefer a full liter, half-liter portions were available
as well.;
All in all, Hofbräuhaus Newport earns high marks for both atmosphere and authenticity. It's a clever adaptation of the original landmark to American tastes, and offers a Munich beer hall experience without the language barrier. If you can't make it to the Cincinnati area, perhaps the Hofbräuhaus will come to you. By the end of 2004, additional locations are expected to open in Chicago, Kansas City, Milwaukee, and San Diego.
Hofbräuhaus Newport is located at 200 East Third Street, Newport, Kentucky. For more information, call 859.491.7200 or visit their website.